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• Pressure washer rinse followed by a Pre-wash foam to loosen and remove heavy dirt & grime with a pressure washer before the contact wash.

• Followed by the Double Bucket method, allowing the wash mitt to be rinsed after making contact, removing dirt & grime from the wash mitt before re dunking in the soap bucket. Accompanied with bucket grit guards holding dirt & grime at the bottom of the bucket away from the wash mitt. Reducing abrasions on paintwork.

• Ph Neutral Auto Glym Conditioner enhancing the durability of paintwork protection previously applied.

• Fallout remover applied to paintwork, lifting iron oxide particles out of the paintwork after being left to dwell.

• Tar & Glue remover is then applied to remove deeply embedded Tree Sap & Tar spots.

• The Vehicle is then Clay Barred using relevant lubricant, this process is the traditional way of polishing removing all contamination stuck to the top layer of lacquer on a micro level. You are unable to see with your naked eye the contamination that is left on the paint and is 9/10 part of the process that is skipped whilst correcting with surprising build up still on the paint. The clay bar is also an excellent way to check for paint contamination still left on the paint as once there is no visible transfer you know that area is ready to go!

• We like to use warm water to allow the clay bar to have a soft texture and to be easily remoulded efficiently whilst moving around the car.

• The decontamination stage is the most important stage when correcting Paintwork, having a clean top layer of lacquer allows the product to bond with the paintwork and not the contaminants. Allowing a more Flawless Result when cutting & refining, if you try and imagine polishing at high speeds & temperature whilst throwing tar, iron particles & other debris it is obvious the finish would be inconsistent.

• The vehicle is then dried with an Automotive blower removing all stagnant water in cracks & crevasses leaving the car completely dry avoiding watermarks.